Help! My Dog Barks and Lunges at Other Dogs on Walks

You used to enjoy walking your dog. Now you dread it.

Every time another dog appears, your dog transforms. Barking. Lunging. Spinning. Maybe even screaming. You're embarrassed. You're exhausted. And you're starting to avoid walks altogether.

If this sounds familiar, you're not alone. Leash reactivity is one of the most common issues dog owners face—and one of the most misunderstood.

Why Dogs React on Leash

First, let's clear something up: most leash-reactive dogs are not aggressive. They're scared, frustrated, or overstimulated. The barking and lunging is a stress response, not an attack.

Here's what might be happening:

Fear. Your dog is worried about the other dog and is trying to make them go away. The barking and lunging is defensive—"Stay back! I'm scary!" The fact that it works (the other dog usually does move away) reinforces the behavior.

Frustration. Some dogs react because they desperately want to greet the other dog but can't because of the leash. This "barrier frustration" can look like aggression but is actually thwarted social behavior.

Overstimulation. The excitement of seeing another dog is just too much for your dog's nervous system to handle. They don't know what to do with all that energy, so it explodes out as reactivity.

Learned behavior. If your dog has practiced this response many times, it becomes automatic. See dog → react. The pattern is ingrained.

Why Punishment Doesn't Work

It's tempting to correct the behavior—yank the leash, yell "no," or use a prong or shock collar. But here's the problem:

If your dog is reacting out of fear or anxiety, punishment makes those feelings worse. Now the other dog predicts both fear AND pain. The underlying emotion intensifies, even if the behavior is temporarily suppressed.

And suppressed behavior has a way of coming back—often worse than before, or in different forms.

What Actually Helps

Addressing leash reactivity requires changing how your dog feels about other dogs, not just how they behave. This takes time and consistency, but it works.

Increase distance. Find the distance where your dog notices other dogs but can still think. This is called "under threshold." If your dog is already barking, you're too close.

Create positive associations. When your dog sees another dog at a distance, feed them high-value treats. You want them to think, "Other dog = good things happen." Over time, their emotional response shifts.

Reward disengagement. When your dog looks at another dog and then looks back at you, reward that choice heavily. You're building a new habit: see dog → check in with human.

Manage the environment. While you're working on this, avoid situations where your dog will be over threshold. Take walks at quieter times. Cross the street when you see another dog. It's not giving up—it's being strategic.

Work on general calmness. A dog who is already stressed before the walk starts will have a harder time staying calm. Focus on relaxation, decompression, and nervous system regulation as part of the bigger picture.

What to Do in the Moment

You're walking along and suddenly there's a dog coming toward you. What now?

1. Create distance. Turn around. Cross the street. Step behind a car. Whatever you need to do to get space between your dog and the trigger.
2. Stay calm. Your dog reads your tension. Breathe. Move smoothly. Don't tighten the leash unless necessary.
3. Don't punish. Yanking, yelling, or correcting will make things worse. Just get out of the situation.
4. Take a break. After a reaction, your dog's stress hormones are elevated. It can take hours to days for them to fully come back down. Consider ending the walk or finding a quiet place to decompress.

When to Get Help

Leash reactivity is absolutely treatable, but it's not easy to address on your own. A trainer who understands reactivity, fear, and positive behavior modification can make a huge difference.

Look for someone who:

• Focuses on changing emotional responses, not just suppressing behavior
• Uses positive reinforcement and counterconditioning
• Doesn't rely on punishment or aversive tools
• Takes time to understand your specific dog

You don't have to figure this out alone. And your dog doesn't have to stay stuck in a cycle of fear and reactivity. With the right approach, walks can become enjoyable again—for both of you.

If you're in the Tampa Bay area and struggling with a reactive dog, our Behavior Programs are designed specifically for this. Reach out to learn more.